Sure, I’m happy to blow a few hundred jacks on a stellar meal at Marea, A Voce, or Mialino, but when I want the real thing… real and authentic, I head out to Queens to my favorite Italian restaurant you’ve probably never heard of: Manducatis.
Manducatis is old country Italian and old school New York at its best. Hidden away behind an unassuming façade in Long Island City, passing by, it can be easy to overlook. But there’s a reason this place has been in business for more than 35 years. That it is a something of a secret after all these years is part of its charm, but when it comes down to it, like most things Italian, the draw here is simple: food and family.
Owners Vincenzo and Ida Cerbone
Manducatis is as family-run as it gets: husband and wife Vincenzo and Ida Cerbone opened the restaurant in 1977, and still run the show – with Ida (a certified Italian grandmother) in the kitchen, and Vincenzo on the floor, tending to a devoted extended family of regulars and newcomers. Their son, Anthony acts as head waiter and sommelier (I’ll get to the wine list in a moment!), with other members of the family pitching in.
As for the food, Manducatis is straight up red sauce Italian. You’ll receive a menu, but don’t expect to spend much time looking at it – chances are Ida will join you at the table to make her personal recommendations, and her choices are always spot-on. From the homemade pastas to amazing fresh fish (the branzino is a favorite) served on dishes featuring a childhood photo of Ida, this is Italian comfort food done right.
Headwaiter and sommelier, Anthony Cerbone
Now, the wine list! The wine program created by Vincenzo and overseen with care by Anthony is truly unique in the city. It’s extensive, with about 400 bottles to choose from, but this alone does not set it apart. What does, is the availability of great wines, decades old, at prices that you might have expected to pay when the wines were first released. And once again, if you’re having trouble making a selection, the family is ready to come to the rescue: Anthony is a fantastic sommelier and is eager to offer some brilliant suggestions.
I realize it may sound formulaic at this point to say that “when you’re here, you’re part of the family.” This claim has been made about nearly every Italian restaurant in existence – heck, The Olive Garden even made some variation of it their slogan. But if the phrase is going to be applied anywhere, it should be reserved for Manducatis. A single evening here is all it takes to feel right at home, and chances are, like me you’ll be coming home again soon.
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